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 Costa de la Luz

The Costa de la Luz (Coast of light) is the western part of the Andalucía coastline that faces out to the Atlantic. The sand is finer and a more golden colour than the neighbouring Costa del Sol.

The typical beaches here are more expansive and probably backed by sand dunes and pine trees. This part of the coast has not seen the high-rise hotel development of other areas. The temperatures are slightly milder and the often strong Atlantic winds and waves are favoured by wind surfers and surfboarders alike.

The stretches of cliffs and coves are generally found to the east near Barbate and around the Campo de Gibraltar.

The Costa de la Luz is slowly taking off with both international tourists and home buyers, with several developments and golf courses being constructed, with more to follow.

Tarifa

Tarifa is located in the Cadiz province, on the most southern point of the European Continent, only 14 km from Morocco. This most southern point is called La Punta de Tarifa and is situated on the Isla de las Palomas, that has been connected to the city by means of a road that facilitates access to the lighthouse.
This area is considered the point of union between two Continents and two Cultures, namely the African and the European.

Conil

This small town is fast becoming popular with summer tourists. However, it is still a typical Andalucian town with narrow cobbled streets, tapas bars and an open air market at weekends and pavement cafes around the main plazas.

Another spectacular beach, a wide bay of brilliant yellow sand stretching as far as the eye can see. Head for El Palmar beach for campsites and hostels and a couple of excellent beach restaurants for lunch. One or two become discotheques on hot summer nights.

 Vejer de la Frontera

If you are exploring the N340 Costa de la Luz coast road, you'd be wise to make time for a wander around Vejer. This classic white village on the hilltop is well worth a visit. It is actually 10 kilometres inland, perched high above the steep gorge of the River Barbate. The more interesting arrival is from the outpost at the bottom of the ravine called La Barca de Vejer. From here take the steep road up the escarpment and straight into the beautiful Plaza de España, undoubtedly one of the prettiest village squares in Spain. The town square, shaded by vast palm trees, has a wonderful old fountain with traditional ceramic Andalucian frogs, which spout water high into the air, thus forming a fountain.

If you are lucky, park the car in the plaza. If not park on the road leading up to the plaza and walk back.From the plaza enter the old walled town through the arch (Arco de la Villa). This stunning castellated town is a magical place to explore, its quiet cobbled streets meandering through a charming jumble of secret corners, hidden patios and delightful houses. One is relieved to find barely a hint of plastic or a trace of the 20th Century. Even the rubbish bins appear to have been carefully designed to please the eye! The village has been officially declared an Historical Artistic Monument of National importance. Specific places of interest include:

Plaza de España - is a meeting place with numerous cafes and bars around the outside. In the centre there is an ornate ceramic fountain featuring 4 frogs. The town hall is located in the square and a notable feature is the facade of the fabled Casa de la Inquisición (no. 12 & 13).
Arab Castle - is hidden in the old quarter. A classic 11th century arch leads into a courtyard. During the summer school holidays the local scouts and guides will show you around the ramparts.
Santuario de Nuestra Senora de la Oliva - is a local chapel, which houses a 16th century carved image of the Virgin Mary.
Casa de Mayorazgo - Enter the courtyard of this private house and walk through into an inner patio well kept with lots of potted plants. Climb the corner tower of the old walls for a view down to Plaza de España. This is open while daylight lasts. There is no fee - but donations are accepted.

Casa Marquez de Tamaron - This old building is now used as the Casa de la Cultura which is where the local town hall organises cultural events. Check out the notice board. The small municipal library and reading room is located here.
City Walls and Arches - The city walls are very much still intact and you can climb up on to them at various points. There are half a dozen entrance arches such as Arco de la Villa, Puerto de Sancho IV.

Cadiz

Cadiz stands on a peninsula jutting out into a bay, and is almost entirely surrounded by water. Named Gadir by the Phoenicians, who founded their trading post in 1100 BC, it was later controlled by the Carthaginians, until it became a thriving Roman port. It sank into oblivion under the Visigoths and Moors, but attained great splendour in the early 16th century as a launching point for the journey to the newly discovered lands of America. Cadiz was later raided by Sir Francis Drake, in the struggle to gain control of trade with the New World, and managed to withstand a siege by Napoleon's army. In the early 19th century Cadiz became the bastion of Spain's anti-monarchist, liberal movement, as a result of which the country's first Constitution was declared here in 1812.

Some of the city's 18th century walls still stand, such as the Landward Gate. The old, central quarter of Cadiz is famous for its picturesque charm, and many of the buildings reflect the city's overseas links. Worth a visit are the city's Cathedral and churches of Santa Cruz and San Felipe Neri, which is famous throughout Spain as the place where, in defiance of Napoleon's siege, the provisional government was set up with its own liberal Constitution. Other points of interest are La Santa Cueva, home to several paintings by Goya, and stately mansions such as the Casa del Almirante and Casa de las Cadenas.

The old city looks quite Moorish in appearance and is intriguing with narrow cobbled streets opening onto small squares. The golden cupola of the cathedral looms high above long white houses and the whole place has a slightly dilapidated air. It just takes an hour to walk around the headlands where you can visit the entire old town and pass through some lovely parks with sweeping views of the bay.

 

Huelva

The actual city of Huelva dates back some 3000 years when it was named Onuba. Later, it prospered under the Carthaginians and Romans who used it as a base for mining. Three of the key sites of the Columbus story can also be found here - Lugares Colombinos.Today it is large, sprawling and industrialised with a population of 141,000. Heavy industrial plants line much of its Odiel waterfront and stretch far to the south. The city centre is pleasant and it is a convenient base for visiting the nearby Columbus sites or the Marismas del Odiel wetlands and the Coto Dónana national park.

Huelva claims to be a 'flamenco capital', however several of the city's splendid old buildings and monuments remain, including the 15th century Church of San Pedro, built on the site of a mosque; the Shrine of Nuestra Senora de la Cinta and, last but not least, the home of Christopher Columbus next to his commemorative monument. Wander around the atmospheric barrio Reina Victoria Alonso or visit the Alonso Sanchez park which affords attractive views of the city. Other points of interest in the city include the Muelle del Tinto docks, built at the beginning of the century to load Huelva's mineral exports; the Conquero lookout and the provincial museum. The commemorative monument. Christopher Columbus guards the Rio Tinto. The monument was crafted by the American sculptress, Gertrude Whitney.

 Barbate

Barbate is a town of some 20.000 people on the Costa de la Luz, 40km north of Tarifa. This modern town, (often called Barbate de Franco because the ex-dictator spent many summers here), has grown up around a fishing industry which goes back to Roman times when the fish-salting industry was at its peak. Its modern layout lacks the charm of some of the more traditional Andalucian villages, but there are nevertheless, some nice buildings in the heart of the old town. There is a modern square "Plaza de la Inmaculada" with the Town Hall on one side and the ancient Church of Sta Paulino on the other.

The town is popular in the summer with Spanish holiday makers although it is generally untouched by foreign tourists. Barbate has a wonderful "promenade" where you can stroll for almost 2 km, from the River Barbate to the Marina. The town main beach called Playa del Carmen is very popular. This contrast with beaches under the cliffs to the north of the fishing port and the Marina that are virtually deserted even in the height of summer. To the south of the River Barbate estuary, the beaches of Playa del Botero stretch for miles. These are also unspoilt as most (but not all) are discouraged by the 'Military Zone Keep Out' signs. Natural Parks just to the north of the town, a vast Protected Area of pine forest reaches down to 100m high cliffs. The miles of long sandy beaches flanked by pines are well worth a visit. To the south is another Protected Area, the marshy salt-flats of the Parque Natural de la Brena y Marismas del Barbate

Jerez de la Frontera

Jerez de la Fronterabecame famous throughout the world for its sweet wines named after the town, which the British pronounced "sherry". It is called "de la Frontera" because it once stood on the frontier between the Moorish and the Christian realms. Jerez is also famous, throughout the world, for its fine horses and brilliant singers and dancers of flamenco. The distinctive wine in Jerez has been exported for centuries, it was even praised by Shakespeare. It is distinctive because the strong sun gives the grapes a high sugar content. British merchants have been involved in the wine trade here for centuries, producing and shipping a fortified wine known as sherry. Famous names of these dynasties can be seen here over the doors of the bodegas; Sandeman, John Harvey, Domecq, Gonzalez Byass.

The Spanish word bodega means "cellar", but it has the generical meaning of "wine manufacturer". You can take a guided tour of the many Jerez bodegas. Some of the companies such as Gonzalez Byass, Pedro Domecq and Sandeman – British winemakers have been active here for centuries, which is why many of the names have an Anglo-Saxon ring to them – provided guided tours of the cellars on weekdays, followed by sampling of the various types of wine The town has a markedly aristocratic flavour with wide streets and squares. The 11th century Moorish fortress, or Alcazaba, has been partially restored. Of special interest is its church, originally built by the Arabs as a mosque. The Sacristy of the Cathedral del Salvador is home to a lovely painting by Zurbarán, The Sleeping Girl

Punta Umbria

Another resort town and large beach on the River Odiel. To the west of the town there are walks through the pine forests. Lots of different beach bars to choose from. As the sun sets the students organize beach football or volleyball. The town comes alive at night.
Isla Cristina Very large beach popular with young people. Supported by small new developments. Beach backed by dunes and pine trees.
 

Ayamonte

Situated on the Spanish side of the Guadiana River estuary, until very recently the only way to travel to Portugal was a small ferryboat which linked Ayamonte with the Portuguese town of Vila Real de Santo Antonio on a romantic journey lasting 15 minutes.Now the two countries are joined by an avant-garde suspension bridge, which has led to an increase in the flow of traffic between them.
The castle foundations show its Roman origins, and an Arab minaret has been discovered beneath the Baroque revetment of one of the two towers. Among the most important monuments it is worth noting the Iglesia del Salvador (16th century) and the convents of San Francisco and Santa Clara.Popular architecture is typical of the area, with one - and two - storey white-washed houses standing out against an intense blue sky. Extensive marvellous beaches of fine golden sand can be found close by this cheerful fishing village, such as those of Isla Canela and Punta del Moral.

Lepe A small market town west of Huelva on the N431 to Portugal. It has a few interesting features and a pleasant central square. Is is also a useful place to stock up on provisions and has a seemingly disproportionate number of hardware shops and mechanical workshops that serve the farming community. Lepe is famous as the strawberry capital of Spain, and unfortunately its inhabitants are is also the subject of hundreds of Spanish jokes

 

Sanlúcar de Barrameda

The town dates back to Roman times. Later the Moors built a defensive fort here which evolved into a major port under the Catholics. Columbus set sail from Sanlúcar in 1498 and, a few decades later, the Portuguese, Ferdinand Magellan set off to circumnavigate the globe from here, in search of a westerly route to the spice islands of Indonesia. Unfortunately, he was killed by local Indians in the Philippines. Today, the town is divided into the older quarter, the Barrio Alto where most of the interesting sights can be seen and the newer Barrio Bajo, closer to the river. The Sanlúcar beaches are also magnificent and stretch several kilometres to the south-west, while the former port and fishing quarter, the Bajo de Guía is unsurprisingly where some of the best seafood restaurants can be found.

The heart of the old town is Plaza del Cabildo, a delightful, palm-fringed square lined with bars and restaurants. Just north is the Plaza de San Roque where the daily market is held. Nearby is the 15th century Iglesia de la Trinidad with its magnificent Mudéjar ceiling. Carry on uphill and you reach the neo-Mudejár Palacio de Orleáns y Borbón, now the ayuntamiento with its flamboyant neo-Mudéjar architecture and public library in the gardens. In the same area is the exquisite Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la O, in the small Plaza de la Paz. This church dates back to the 13th century but the doorway is pure 16th century Mudejár depicting lions bearing coats of arms. This church also has an unusual three-tier belfry from where there are magnificent views of the town. Adjoining the church is the gracious Palacio de los Duques de Medina Sidonia, the former home of the aristocratic family who once owned the majority of Spain! The Duchess of Medina Sidonia, a descendant of the notorious Guzman El Bueno of Tarifa, still lives here, better known as the 'Red Duchess' as a result of her forthright political views. At the time of writing, the palace is an exclusive guesthouse and not open to the general public.

 The town's ruined castle is currently closed for restoration works and stands amidst the buildings of the Barbadillo sherry company. This is the town's largest sherry firm and there are weekly tours every Thursday, taking place at noon. The bodega produces four varieties of sherry - a fino, olorosa, pasada and solear muy vieja, plus an excellent table wine.

Sanlúcar is also noted for its horse racing which dates back to 1845 and takes place along a 1,800 stretch of beach at the mouth of the Río Guadalquivir during the month of August, daily from 6.00 pm, on the 2nd and 4th weekends of the month (Thursday to Sunday). This is a thrilling spectacle where real racehorses thunder across the sand watched by a large noisy crowd of spectators. There is nothing amateur about this event and you can expect to see spectator stands, bookmakers, paddocks and, of course, the winners enclosure. Now an international event with horses from other European countries taking part and many famous names amongst the spectators. This is a serious competition as the total prize money in 2001 was 2.5m Euros. Most of the prize money is awarded during the last weekend.

Another important festival for the town is the Feria de la Manzanilla in early June which leads up to the Noches de Bajo de Guía flamenco season, classical and jazz festivals and the occasional top rate concert.

Chiclana & Sancti Petri

Adjacent to the salt marshes, Chiclana is not on the coast itself. Sancti Petri has become the towns summer resort extension. The Sancti Petri Golf Course, reputed to have been designed by Seve Ballesteros, has stunning views of the sea. Opposite the town is the small island of Sancti Petri with a lighthouse and a magnificent 18th Century castle which was built by the Phoenicians on the ruins of the temple of Zeus. A small ferry can be taken to visit the island in the summer. On the island is the lighthouse and 18th centry castle which was constructed on the ruins of the temple of Zeus built by the Phoenicians.

 

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